Manning to James
Indianapolis Colts vs. Jacksonville Jaguars
Jacksonville, FL
Sport is an integral part of the American experience, and no sport better personifies our collective obsession than football. Sure, baseball is our national pastime, but football packs more people into bigger stadiums with louder crowds, complete with such distractions as cheerleaders and tailgates.
On this weekend in Florida, John Grandefeld (of Memphis barbecue fame) joined me for a few days to experience Game Day at University of Florida in Gainesville for a match-up between the Florida Gators and the Arkansas Razorbacks, and then the following day for a Jacksonville Jaguars vs. Indianapolis Colts NFL game.
The heat was oppressive, and I was battling a cold, but entering a stadium that seats 85,000 people screaming while clad in their orange and blue is an experience unlike anything else. Although Arkansas isn't ranked like the Gators, they still are a familiar foe, and almost gave Florida a scare in the 4th when they went on a scoring drive. You don't have to even be a fan to get caught up with the emotion and excitement of those around you -- that's part of the fan experience that's ineffable to couch potatoes that never get a chance to see a game live.
The other interesting aspect of the day was the political presence outside the stadium of "Gators for Bush," or "Gators for Kerry." In the controversial state of Florida, where democrats and republicans seem evenly split, and "vociferous" (to use a word uttered by George W. Bush at the first presidential debates), it was ironic to see the game outside, as well as in, the stadium.
A few days earlier in Pensacola, I sat down for dinner at the bar of Carrabba's, an Italian chain, and bumped into Gary McCraken, the photo editor of the Pensacola Journal News. His experienced with Hurricane Ivan made me rethink what I wrote about the destruction of the hurricane. When I told him that I had been driving around and I saw damage, but nothing like what I had seen on the evening news (which I called "sensationalist"), he told me that I should have seen it from a helicopter.
Later that evening, I checked out his paper's website to view a slideshow of his work. The destruction in Pensacola was widespread with 4,000 homes completely destroyed and uninhabitable. The landscape was dotted with 30,000 blue tarps on damaged roofs in a community with only 300,000 people. His own house had an oak tree fall through the roof causing massive water damage. He, like other Floridians, noted how quickly the clean-up efforts transpired, which might account for my experience.
John and I also made a brief trip to Disneyworld, where neither of us had been since our youth. Although Orlando has been significantly developed, Disneyworld remains virtually unchanged compared to my memory. We rode Space Mountain, Pirates of the Caribbean, and the Big Thunder Mountain Railroad. John commented on how he was surprised that they hadn't updated anything, but I thought that it added to the sense of nostalgia that even 20+ years later, I could say, "Oh yeah, I remember this ride." We screamed like little girls on Space Mountain -- that rollercoaster in the dark is still scary after all these years.
So that's it. 48 states. 36,000 miles. 14 months. 2 cracked windshields (yes, it cracked again). But I've realized that the journey never really ends. Perhaps the updates won't be as frequent, but I will continue to travel this country of ours for years and years to come. There is so much to see and experience, and I've only started to tap the tip of the iceberg. After all these experiences, I'm just appreciative that America Is.
There is definite destruction, but having toured the area, I think the media has a tendency to show the worst of the worst -- The house with no roof and one wall, the people getting around their street in a boat. The reality is that $8 billion in damage isn’t a whole community of houses that no longer exist. It’s a roof here, a car there, etc. And the structures that had fallen over completely that I witnessed were generally old and poorly constructed. That isn’t to downplay the destruction because clearly, thousands of people are severely affected, like Jim Hildenbrand who lost two roofs to Jeanne and Frances. It’s simply proof of man’s need for sensationalism, which is fed and fueled by the media.
Across the parking lot, volunteers had showed up to wash down cots that were being transferred from one facility to another. A Greensboro Salvation Army chapter left a food truck at a nearby mall so that volunteers from Cocoa, FL could help serve the residence of Melbourne.
Birmingham isn’t at all what I expected. The downtown area is a bit depressed, as downtowns of old cities tend to be. But the outlying suburbs sprawl for miles and are quite cosmopolitan in nature, where upscale malls near new developments are du jour.

Like in Butte, MT, Chinese immigrants were sent to Deadwood by one of six large Chinese companies that would pay for transportation across the Pacific in exchange for work. At the turn of the century, Deadwood had a Chinese population of between 250-500 residents, although many of them eventually dispersed as they did in Butte.
One of the assistants on the Rushmore project was a polish immigrant from Boston, named Korczak Ziolkowski. After winning first prize at the New York World's Fair in 1939 for a sculpture, he was approached by the Lakota Indian Chiefs who wanted him to build a memorial to Crazy Horse, the Indian Chief, whose defiance against the encroachment of his lands by the white men became legendary.
The non-profit organization has built a cultural center near the base of the mountain, that will, in time, become a formal educational institution with a vast collection of Native American artifacts. On this day, I saw a Lakota Indian named Larry performing a dance meant to scare away his enemies. I thought it was funny that his name was "Larry" instead of something more exotic, but heck, my name is Allen, so who am I to judge?
If Old Faithful was a part of Disneyland, I'd be asking for a refund. I waited over an hour for her to blow, and when she finally did (a little late, I might add), there was no thunderous soundtrack, no fireworks, no large mouse shaking the hands of the kids. In fact, before it was even over, hundreds of spectators were already heading for the exits. The geyser doesn't even make any noise. And everyone was quiet. It was like watching TV with the sound off. What happened Mother Nature?
After the California Gold Rush passed, many Chinese immigrants moved to Butte because of the boon in mining. In 1870, the Chinese made up nearly 10% of Butte's population, but were met with disdain and discrimination, and eventually fled for greener pastures. But for many decades, a Chinatown flourished in uptown Butte, and two of the original buildings (Mai Wah Building) still remain, and are maintained by a historical society. Of note, a brick-laden wok oven that originally used firewood for the noodle shop that formerly operated until the 1940s.